Chicken Guide - Mixed Flock

Things to Consider Before Getting Poultry

Check your local town and county ordinances. Many areas, particularly residential settings, have restrictions on the number and type of animals you may have.
Select a secure area where you can set up a coop and run that will meet the basic requirement of protection from weather (sun, wind, rain, snow) and predators (cats, dogs, children, wild animals).
Chickens are social creatures and require being in a flock, plan to keep a minimum of three to six birds.

Choosing the Right Breed

When choosing a breed of bird you need to consider several things:

Why do you want to raise birds? Eggs, meat, pet, therapeutic, competition or a combination of reasons.
How much effort and time are you willing to dedicate to the birds? Some breeds are high- maintenance and require more of your time. Average lifespan is seven years and egg production three years.
What is your local weather climate? Make sure the birds you choose fit your climate or they will require more of your time and a controlled living environment.

Egg Laying Breeds: These birds have been bred to produce large quantities of eggs through their short production lifetimes. Remember the color of eggs and the quantity of eggs laid depends on the breed of hen.
Dual Purpose Breeds: These birds are the best of both worlds in utility terms. They are productive in the egg department and grow large enough to be used as a meat bird later in life. Remember, these birds do not lay quiet as well because they have a dual purpose.

Meat Breeds: As the name suggests these breeds of chicken are bred for meat purposes. They grow very, very quickly. They put on weight at an alarming rate and are ready for slaughter at around nine weeks. The growth, meat production, flavor and tenderness depend on the bird's breed. Types of meat birds: game hen 1 to 1 ½ pounds, broiler, or fryer 4 to 4 ½ pounds, roaster 6 to 8 pounds, stewing dual purpose bird removed from egg production due to age.

Waterfowl: Domestic Ducks and Geese are often raised for eggs, meat, weed and pest control, and feathers. Waterfowl eggs and meat are higher in protein than chicken eggs and meat.
Turkey, Game birds and other poultry: Turkeys, Guinea fowl, Quail, and Pheasants are often raised for show or exhibition, meat production or release into nature.

Bantams: A diminutive chicken about one-fourth the size of a regular chicken. Some Bantams are distinct breeds: other are miniatures of large breeds. They are often raised for eggs, meat, pets, and exhibition. Excellent choice for small spaces.
Exhibition Breeds: Only breeds and varieties admitted to the American Standard of Perfection may compete for the American Poultry Association Inc special prizes and awards. Non-recognized varieties may only be awarded RV and BV, and non-recognized breeds may only be awarded RB and BB.

Helpful Chicken Terminology:

Cockerel – A male bird under twelve months of age. (guaranteed a rooster).

Straight Run – Chicks are not sexed (fifty/fifty chance of getting a rooster).

Pullet – A female chick under twelve months of age. (future layer).

Click To Learn More About Each Type

MIXED FLOCK

Ducks certainly can be raised with chickens; however, some differences need to be considered when adding these cute little fowl to your flock. If you intend to keep ducks with your chickens, you will need to make a few adjustments in both coop and run areas.

Step 1: Preparing For Your Birds' Arrival

Brooder

When setting up a brooder, you will want to consider a couple of key factors: size, sturdiness, security & protection, and ease of cleaning. The birds will be in a brooder for about six to eight weeks, then transitioned into a closed coop. A brooder needs to have at least 1 sq. ft of space per bird. This gives your birds plenty of room to jump, run, squabble, play, explore, and stretch their legs and wings and groom themselves.

Bedding

Should be 1-2 inches deep. It should be kept clean and dry. Do not use cedar shavings or slick bedding material. Bedding should be changed weekly or when wet or dirty.

Heat Source

Start chicks at 95 degrees. Drop the temperature 5 degrees per week down to 65 degrees and/or until no heat is needed (fully feathered or outside temperature above 65 degrees). Keep a thermometer at bird level so you can manage the temperature accurately. Also be sure you have room in the area where they can all be under the heat source or out of the heat source if they need it. Pre-heat the brooder area 24 hours prior to your chick’s arrival.

Waterers

Start small so the chicks can reach the water. When moving to the coop it is a great time to add a larger capacity of water. Waterers should be available 24 hours a day. Refresh water 2-3 times a day. Check often if the ducks & geese are playing in the water.

Feeders

Start small no taller than 1 inch so the chicks can reach the feed. When moving to the coop is a great time to add larger capacity feeder.

Step 2: Feed And Supplements

Supplements

Nutritional products are designed to provide extra nutritional support, prevent a weak immune system, or improve a specific concern about growth/development.

Starter Feed - Poultry feed comes in a wide array of choices that can be confusing, so here is the scoop. Mixed flock is going to be a little different schedule.

Non-Medicated Feed

For vaccinated bird, waterfowl (duck, geese), turkey and mixed flocks (chickens, ducks, turkeys, and geese). These feeds can be fed from hatch to eight weeks.

Flock Raiser

Optimum nutrition for healthy mixed poultry flock. These feeds can be fed hatch to sixteen weeks.

All Flock

For chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese and pheasants as a sole ration from eight weeks of age and on.

Step 3: Training Your Birds

Around four weeks of age is a good time to introduce a perch to your flock. Perching keeps birds up off the ground which means they are less likely to be exposed to bacteria, mites, and lice. Chickens also find perching a secure place to relax and sleep.

This is a great time to socialize with your birds. By socializing with the birds, it can make interacting with them a lot easier, especially if they get hurt or need help and it’s a way to discover their individual personalities.

Step 4: Moving Them Into The Coop

Whether you choose to buy a coop or build one remember the seven essential features: roosting perches, nesting boxes, good ventilation, lockable doors, room for waters and feeders, and enclosed outdoor run. Once the birds are adjusted to the coop you can open the door to the outside run and let them explore their new home. If you have ducks place nesting boxes on the floor as they do not perch. This is a good time to introduce a duck waterer and pool.

If you have other birds, you will need to introduce them slowly. The best way is to place the chicks in a crate and place the crate inside the coop during the day. This way they will become acclimated without the older birds picking on them. After a few days of doing this, you will be able to go into the coop at night and place the chicks on the perch with the older birds.

Step 5: Transition To Layer Feed Adding Supplements And Treats

Layer Feeds

Are specially formulated to encourage healthy growth and production formulated by the species, type, and desired effect of feed. Many have additional vitamins and amino acids to maintain growing and adult flocks.

Supplement

This is a great time to introduce oyster shell and girt to your flock for digestive support.

Treats - Should make up no more than 10% of the total diet for adult poultry. The best time to give a snack is in the evening when they have consumed the bulk of their daily nutritional needs.

Grains

Are designed to be fed as a treat to adult poultry. Provides poultry with supplemental energy to support egg production and growth.

Blocks

Are designed to be fed as a treat to adult poultry. Provides supplemental energy to support egg production and growth. Ideal for laying hens and mixed poultry flocks. Keeps poultry busy and entertained in between feedings. 

Dried Animal Proteins

Are designed to be fed as a snack to adult poultry. Containing rich dried animal proteins (mealworms, fly larvae, crickets, grasshopper, fish, shrimp)

Mixed Proteins

Are designed to be fed as a snack to adult poultry. Containing rich dried animal proteins, grains and dried plant proteins

Step 6: Introduce Nesting and Bath Areas

Nesting Area:
The first eggs often arrive when hens are between 16-18 weeks old, subject to breed, environment and nutrition. It is suggested you have the nesting area in place by 12 weeks of age so they can familiarize themselves.

Where to locate the nesting area?
Chicken nesting box should be at least 18 inches off the ground, and the opening at least 8 inches away from the perches. It would be preferred to be a place away from direct sunlight, and where the flock doesn’t hangout. Hens need to feel safe and secure while laying their egg.
Ducks nesting area should be on the floor in a place away from direct sunlight, and where the flock doesn’t hangout. Hens need to feel safe and secure while laying their egg.

What is a good size for a nesting box?
For lightweight layers a nest should be 12 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. Heavier breeds need larger nests — 14 inches wide by 14 inches high by 12 inches deep. For bantams, a reasonable size is 10 inches wide by 12 inches high by 10 inches deep. 
Ducks make a nesting bowl 7-8 inches in diameter and 1-2 inches deep on the ground, so provide an area at least 18 inches by 18 inches and 2 inches deep.

How many nesting boxes do I need?
Generally, you should provide one nesting box or nesting bowl area for every four laying hens. If your flock has less than four hens, supply at least two nests to give them a choice.

Nesting Box Options
Chickens Only

Nesting Material

Nesting Eggs

Nesting Odor Prevention
Chickens Only

Dust Baths: Chickens Only

Dust baths are how your chickens maintain healthy hygiene and keep chickens’ skin and feathers healthy and clean. Flopping around in the dirt gets the dirt particles in every nook and cranny of their feathers, knocking mites, lice, and old skin loose. A dust bath also offers chickens a way to cool off on a hot summer day. By providing a dust bath for your birds it will reduce the risk of them digging holes in your yard, flowerbeds and garden.

Where to locate the dust bath? Begin by analyzing areas in your yard frequented by your birds when dust bathing. Often, chickens love making their dust baths in spots exposed to sunlight but provide some shade when it gets hotter. Or place it in the run area where it is shielded from the weather.

What is a good size for a dust bath? Well, that depends on where you place the dust bath. The smallest one you would probably want to go to would be 24 inches wide by 24 inches long by 6 inches deep.

Dust Bath Container Options

Dust Bath Material

Baths: Ducks Only

Why do ducks need bath water? Ducks have a gland near their tail that secretes oil, which they spread over their feathers to make them waterproof. Without access to water, ducks cannot preen their feathers effectively, which can lead to waterlogging and hypothermia. A shallow area of water where ducks can submerge their whole head is ideal for preening.

What size of bath do ducks need? minimized size for recreational water for ducks is around 24 inches by 24 inches and 8-10 inches deep, which gives the duck plenty of space to submerge its body and head under the water.

Who often should I clean the bath? Ducks are messy animals, and their water can quickly become dirty. It is important to change their water frequently to prevent the buildup of bacteria and algae. If you are keeping ducks with other farm animals, it is important to keep their water separate to prevent contamination.

Why are the ducks playing in the waterers? Ducks need to clean their bills quite frequently, both during eating and after. If they don’t have a bath area they will start bathing in their drinking water.

Bathing Container Options

Step 7: Preparing for Winter

Prepare the coop and run for winter. Keep the coop draft free, but don’t seal completely. Some air needs to be exchanged to prevent ammonia build-up. Keep the coop and run dry.

Covers and Windbreaks

Keep feed and water from freezing. Consider heated waterers and plan to feed and water your flock more often when it’s below freezing. Energy needs increase in winter – animals expend a considerable amount of energy to stay warm and will eat more feed.

Heaters and deicer’s

Chickens can tolerate snow, cold air and ice. There is very little muscle in the lower part of bird legs and feet. The movements are controlled by tendons that stretch from the upper part of the legs down to the toes. Secondly, the blood entering the lower legs and feet is cooled by the blood returning to the heart. The returning blood is thus warmed by the blood going to the toes. The tissue receives just enough heat to avoid frostbite while also providing enough oxygen to keep their system functioning. So yes, let your chickens outside in the winter and enjoy the snow!
But when there are sudden drops in temperature or extreme weather, you may need to be prepared to offer added support. If you feel it is necessary to provide a chicken coop heater, only provide enough heat to raise the temperature a few degrees.  Never have the inside and outside temperature be more than ten degrees differences
Ducks have a thick body fat layer and fairly weatherproof feathers and soft down on duck’s helps protect them from the winter chill. Even though snow may be on the ground and the temperature down to single digits, ducks will still want to be out and about lounging in what sun there is and getting at least their heads and bills wet. Ducks really don’t need artificial heat unless the temperature drops way below 0 degrees. It is best to add 8-12 inches of bedding material for the winter months.

Heating options

While many humans enjoy a tropical, high-humidity environment during cold weather, your chickens will not. Moisture must be removed from the winter chicken coop by removing any wet spots daily. Provide more bedding than you would in other seasons, so birds have a place to burrow and stay cozy.

Bedding Options

Hens will spend more time in the coop, so offering activities will keep them from getting bored and start picking on each other. Logs, sturdy branches, old ladders or chicken swings work well to provide new entertainment. You can also place flock block supplement in the coop for a nutritious place for your hens to peck. Remember the 90/10 still applies in winter. Limit treats to less than 10 percent of your chickens’ overall diet.
Ducks will spend most of their time outdoors regardless of the weather and don’t require pecking options and toys, but they will enjoy them just the same as chickens.