The Root of the Problem

By

Debbie Cook

There seems to be some kind of cosmic connection between late winter sunshine and pruning tools. It’s the first tool we grab on that February day when the sun is shining and the air feels like spring. We just can’t resist the urge to cut. So for those of us that are headed off, pruners in hand to cut something, here are a few tips that might be of some help.

q       Realize that your plant will have a reaction to each pruning cut. Know your plant. Not all plants are pruned the same way or at the same time of year. Understand how your plant grows and the reaction it will have to pruning.

q       Make sure that your tools are sharp. You’ll only damage the plant stems by cutting with dull pruners and make it harder on yourself. Use the correct size pruners.  Hand pruners on branches less than ½ inch, loppers on branches up to 1-½ inches and a pruning saw on anything larger.

q       Make correct pruning cuts and recognize the different pruning methods. Heading, thinning and shearing.

q       Why are you pruning? To encourage fruit production? To repair damage? To thin, direct or control growth?  There needs to be more of a reason then time of year; know what that reason is.

q       Disinfect your tools between each cut when you’re pruning on a diseased plant so you don’t spread it throughout the plant. It’s a good practice to regularly disinfect your tools between plants. A Clorox wipe is handy and quick. Or, mix 1-part bleach to 9 parts water. Dip to disinfect. Use Pam or other oil product to condition the metal of your pruners when you’re finished for the day. Bleach is hard on metal.

q       Never top a tree. It’s one of the most harmful things you can do. When finished pruning, a tree should still look like a tree.

q       It’s better to prune lightly every year then do a major pruning every three or four years. Smaller cuts cover themselves more quickly.

q       Stand back and look at the plant before making any cuts. Decide how much and where you’ll make any cuts. Start with removing the dead, broken or diseased branches. Cut out stems that crowd or cross through the center of the plant.  Sometimes, when you’re finished pruning just those things, no more pruning is necessary.

q       Always cut branches back to a growing point, either a branch, or a bud. Don’t leave stubs because they will die back and disease may spread down the branch. You can direct the growth by cutting back to a bud or branch facing the direction you want the growth to go.

q       Get a good pruning book. Bulletins are available at your County Extension Offices for a very nominal fee on pruning deciduous trees, conifers and fruit trees. 

q       Know when to get professional help.  If you need high chainsaw work, have large storm damaged trees, need big tree rejuvenation or help stabilizing a weak or damaged tree, call a certified arborist and get several bids. Always ask for references and go look at the work.  Does the tree still look like a tree when the work is finished? If anyone mentions the word topping, send them down the road. It’s one of the most harmful things you can do to your tree. No kidding.

q        If you need tree work done around power lines call the power company so you don’t electrocute yourself. It’s dangerous work and they have professional arborists that are certified to work around power lines.

q       Take a class. Many communities offer free pruning classes so that you’ll know how to make correct pruning cuts. Call your forestry offices for more information.

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