Winter Pet Advice
This month’s article will deal with the oncoming cold weather and how it affects your pets. There are several pet hazards that I see every year at this time. The first hazard is antifreeze. People commonly change their cars antifreeze in the fall to prepare for freezing winter temperatures. Although some antifreeze products are harmless, the majority of them are extremely toxic. Antifreeze is palatable to dogs and cats and they will readily drink it. The initial signs of intoxication can include staggering, vomiting and depression. It is critical that you have your dog seen by a veterinarian immediately. The animal must be seen in the early stages of intoxication in order to provide life saving treatment. After the initial intoxication, the animal may appear to recover only to die days later of kidney failure. Once symptoms of kidney failure are seen, very little can be done.
The second common hazard occurs mainly in cats. Cats will often crawl into the engine compartment of vehicles to get warm and to get out of the wind. When the engine is started, severe injuries and death can be the result. Check under the hood or honk the horn before starting the engine to avoid this tragedy.
Provide dogs and cats with shelter to get out of the cold, the wet, and the wind. Shelters should be built with insulation and a heat source other than a heat lamp. This is especially true for dogs and cats that live both indoors and outdoors because they will not be as acclimated to the cold weather. Also, make sure that they have a reliable water source that is free of ice. Heated bowls are available at your local D&B store. You should also provide a comfortable bed for your pet, especially if they suffer from arthritis.
Proper nutrition is necessary, and pets will need to increase their caloric intake to keep themselves warm if they are spending most of their time outside. However, many pets (like their owners) will gravitate to the couch during the winter months and therefore can become overweight. Match you pet’s lifestyle with the proper caloric intake to avoid these problems. Until next time, enjoy our beautiful Pacific Northwest fall.
Canine Vaccinations
This month I will attempt to tackle the difficult question of when, how and with what to vaccinate puppies. I deal with these questions on a daily basis either directly from my clients or indirectly because I see a puppy that has been vaccinated by a breeder incorrectly. In order to completely understand answers to these questions you must have a good understanding of basic immunology. It is necessary to understand the individual diseases, their prevalence, and how they affect the puppy. There would be no way to adequately cover all of these topics in this article. I can however give you some basic guidelines to follow. Before we go any further however, you must understand that as technology develops and new vaccines are produced, the answers sometimes change.
The first question is, “what diseases should I vaccinate against”? I generally follow the guidelines recommended by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). I vaccinate all puppies initially with a vaccine containing distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus (Type 2) and rabies. Other vaccines are available to prevent diseases such as giardia, leptospirosis, bordatella, parainfluenza, lyme disease, coronavirus, and rattlesnake bites. I consider the patient’s risk to the second list of vaccines, and in some cases I don’t use them at all because of questionable efficacy. Rabies can only be given by licensed veterinarians and in puppies older than 12 weeks. “Kennel cough” vaccines containing bordatella or bordatella combined with parainfluenza should also be given if the dog will have a risk of exposure or is mandated by boarding facilities or groomers.
The second question is, “when do I start vaccines”? In general, I recommend starting at seven to eight weeks of age. But, this assumes that the puppy’s mother was adequately vaccinated. An adequately vaccinated bitch should transfer antibodies to he puppies that will protect it for the first eight weeks of life and possibly longer. In puppies with questionable maternal protection, I sometimes recommend six weeks. The question as to whether a puppy’s immune system is competent enough to respond to a vaccine can be answered definitively with blood tests, but for most puppies testing would be impractical.
The third question is, “how many shots and how often should I give them”? I recommend giving vaccines at four week intervals and they need at least two boosters. In other words; I gave the first vaccine at seven weeks, a second at eleven weeks and a third at fifteen weeks. In some breeds such as Rottweilers, Pit Bulls, and Dobermans, I may give a fourth at nineteen weeks. The core vaccines should be given annually or every three years depending on the brand of vaccine used and the manufacturer’s recommendations.
The final question is, “how do I administer the vaccine”? Follow the manufacture’s instructions. Almost all of the vaccines are given subcutaneously (under the skin) or intranasally (squirted in the nose). It is important to give the entire amount of the vaccine under the skin and not in the skin (intradermal), or in the muscle (intramuscular). It is also important to mix (if needed) the vaccine properly. Some vaccines come in two bottles. One bottle will contain a liquid and the other a small pellet of dried powder. You must draw the liquid out with the syringe and inject it into the bottle containing the pellet. After mixing, you then withdraw the mixture and administer it to the dog. It is also imperative that the vaccine be kept cold prior to administration. If these rules are not followed, the vaccine may fail to produce immunity.
Vaccinating you pets can be done successfully and D&B Supply can help. But, you must understand the above principals in order to adequately protect your pet. Consult with your veterinarian if you are uncertain about any of the above. Remember that one single vaccination protocol will not cover all needs. A working cow-dog may have different disease exposure risk that a dog confined to the back yard. A failure to vaccinate properly will result in your veterinarian looking at you like my plumber looks at me after a failed home-improvement attempt.
Equine Deworming
This month’s topic is horse parasite control, specifically what products D&B Supply carries and how they work. Currently your choices include: Quest (moxidectan), Equimax (Ivermectin/Praziquantel), Rotectin P (Pyrantel), Ivercare(Ivermectin), Safeguard (Fenbendazole), Stonglycare (Pyrantel), Iverease (Ivermectin), and Horse Health (Ivermectin). As you can see there are basically four main active ingredients with praziquantel thrown in for tapeworm control: moxidectan, ivermectin, pyrantel and fenbendazole.
Ivermectin is one of the most effective dewormers available on the market because of its broad spectrum of activity. This product is effective against large strongyles, small strongyles, stomach worms, pinworms, ascarids, threadworms, and bots. There have been some reports of parasite resistance to this drug but it is rare.
Moxidectin is one of the newest dewormers and was developed in 1997. It’s spectrum of activity is similar to ivermectin except that it is more effective against some of the larval stages of small strongyles.
Fenbendazole is effective against large strongyles, small strongyles, pinworms and ascarids. To be most effective it is usually given for five consecutive days. This product is extremely safe and can be used in pregnant mares and young foals.
Pyrantel is the oldest deworming product of the four and is effective against large and small strongyles, pinworms and ascarids. This product is sometimes used as a daily treatment in the feed (Strongid-C).
Praziquantel (as sold mixed with ivermectin in Equimax) is effective against tapeworms.
A deworming program should ideally be tailored to the individual horse or heard. When the products should be used and which product to use depends on the type of parasites the animal will encounter. A definitive diagnosis can be made by examining fecal samples for parasite eggs. This is the only way to accurately determine which products should be used and when. Once you determine what parasites you are dealing with you can then make some intelligent decisions about product selection. In general, foals should be more intensively dewormed due to ascarid infestations that can be very serious. Some foals may need to be dewormed monthly during their first year of life. Again, this should be based on fecal exams. Adults should be dewormed in the spring and the fall with a product containing ivermectin or moxidectin. This should be a minimum. The decision to add additional treatments should be based on fecal exams. “Rotational deworming” (i.e. using different products at diffent times) is an idea that was developed to reduce the likelihood of developing parasites that are resistant to some of the broad spectrum products such as ivermectin. While resistance has been documented, it is a rare occurance and not a good reason not to use the more powerful products at critical times. If your fecal exams reveal low egg counts during the summer of parasites susceptible to products such as pyrantel then this might make sense. Again, the decision should be based upon objective data and not just a habit or a form that the drug manufacturer prints out. Ideally you should perform fecal exams 2 weeks after deworming to asses the effectiveness of the treatment.
Deworming products are only a part of the parasite control program. Pasture rotation, mucking out stalls to remove fecal material, removal of bot eggs, and not feeding off of the ground are all management practices that can be used to reduce parasites in horses.
West Nile Virus
WNV was first seen in the United States in 1999. Since then it has traveled across the continent by migratory waterfowl. The virus primarily causes encephalitis in horses, birds and humans but has been known to infect other species including dogs and cats. The virus is transmitted from birds to horses by mosquitoes. There have been no reports of the virus been transmitted from one infected animal to another by direct contact.
Once infected, horses exhibit symptoms such as skin twitching (especially around the muzzle), sensitivity to loud noises and sunlight, driving or pushing behavior, rolling (like colic), fever and incoordination. Death can occur in up to 33% of the infected horses.
Treatment WNV is mostly symptomatic; anti-inflammatories and fluids are often used. Intravenous DMSO and steroids have also been a part of the treatment program, but the mainstay of treatment is supportive care while the horse’s immune system fights the infection.
Prevention is the key for this disease. Currently there are three commercially available vaccines. You are all familiar with Merial’s “Recombitek” vaccine. Other vaccines include Fort Dodge’s “Innovator” and Intervet’s “PreveNile”. All of the vaccines have proven to be effective. The “Innovator” vaccine is the most studied since in was the first to be approved by the FDA. All of the vaccines are given as a single dose and then boosted in 4-6 weeks. The “Innovator” product has been found to be safe in pregnant mares after the first 60 days of pregnancy. The others may be safe as well but more studies need to be done. Boosting one product with another is thought to be effective although evidence of this is mostly anecdotal. However, the only advice that you can give to customers is the labeled claims on the package insert. Removal of mosquito larval habitat is also critical for prevention
As stated above, WNV can infect dogs and cats. There are currently no vaccines available for any species other than horses. As with horses, treatment consists of supportive care and most infected dogs and cats will recover.
The following link will provide you with some statistics about the prevalence of WNV in our area: http://www.phd5.idaho.gov/WestNile/index.html
Joint Pain in Dogs and Cats
This month I have decided to write on a topic that is something that I see on a daily basis. Some degree of joint pain in older animals is inevitable. In some cases it can be debilitating. In this article I would like to discuss what can be done to delay the onset of osteoarthritis and what can be done about it when it occurs.
Osteoarthritis is a chronic and debilitating disease that affects the soft tissues and bones of a joint. Any joint can be affected but the most common joints are the hips, knees, shoulders, elbows and the spine. There are many causes of arthritis but I am specifically talking about arthritis that is the result of excessive wear and tear on normal and abnormal joints.
Abnormal joints are those that have been damaged by trauma or may have become abnormal during the animals growth period. Developmental problems such as hip/elbow dysplasia, osteochondrosis, chondrodysplasia (such as dachshunds, bassets etc.) and others, predispose the joint to early wear because the joint is forced to function under abnormal mechanical stress. In some cases these predisposing factors can be remedied with surgical correction. In most cases, surgical correction may slow the onset of osteoarthritis but ultimately the degeneration will occur and usually at a faster rate than it would in an otherwise healthy joint
The formation of osteoarthritis can be accelerated in normal joints by excessive work in the case of working dogs, and by excessive load bearing in the case of overweight dogs and cats.
The two things that have the greatest impact on you pet’s joint health are exercise and nutrition. Even the incidence of diseases such as hip dysplasia in dogs can be greatly reduced with good nutritional management. Moderate, low impact exercise and weight control are critical to keeping the joints healthy. Dogs and cats should be kept lean. I like to run the palm of my hand across a dog’s chest and be able to feel and count the ribs. I don’t mean that you can just feel something firm under there, you need to be able to count ribs.
If your dog is already experiencing pain from osteoarthritis there are several things that can be done. My first recommendation (besides weight loss) is chondroprotective agents such as glucosamine. Products like Nutri-Vet’s Hip and Joint have been proven to help eliminate pain and slow down the degenerative process by protecting the cartilage and increasing the lubrication properties of the joint fluid. They have also have a wide margin of safety. There are several diets that have been shown to help with osteoarthritis. These diets are supplemented with essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and eicosaniods. Finally, anti-inflammatories can be helpful. The only available OTC product that is reasonably safe to use in dogs is aspirin. However, clients should consult their veterinarian before putting dogs on long term anti-inflammatories of any kind because of some potentially serious side effects. The most effectice anti-inflammatories are available only by prescription.
Cats can be supplemented with glucosamine but no OTC anti-inflammatories are available for cats and none should be recommended.
Providing a soft, warm place to sleep is very helpful. Pet beds and approved warming pads can greatly reduce the pain and stiffness associated with osteoarthritis.
Massage and acupuncture are two treatments that are gaining favor among veterinarians.
Moderate exercise is also very helpful. Avoid any exercise that is high impact. Swimming is the gold standard because it increases muscle tone without stressing the joints. If you dog can’t/won’t swim then walking is the next best choice.
Osteoarthritis is a condition that I deal with daily in my practice. I often see older pets that are suffering from arthritis pain and the owners aren’t even aware of it because it comes on slowly and it can be difficult to detect. Sometimes we are amazed at how much better the pet does on anti-inflammatories because we really didn’t understand how painful the patient really was. If you think your pet is painful, have them examined and try one or more of the above recommendations.
Holiday Hazards
This month’s article will address several common problems that occur even more frequently during the winter months.
The first category is food items often seen around the holidays. The most common problem is dietary indiscretion by animals/owners. Feeding pets scraps, especially items high in fat, can cause serious illness ranging from an upset stomach to life threatening illness such as pancreatitis. I hear many owners tell me how their dog has eaten table scraps for years and it has never been a problem. While that may be true in some cases, I certainly see a lot of vomiting/diarrhea dogs with table scraps in the history. Moldy or spoiled leftovers are bad for obvious reasons but animals often find these items in the garbage can.
Chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine that is similar to caffeine in its effect on the nervous system. Especially toxic is the unsweetened baker’s chocolate. Theobromine intoxication can be deadly and should be treated immediately. If the pet is conscious and responsive it is best to induce vomiting with hydrogen peroxide given orally. I generally give 5 to 10 milliliters orally and wait 10 minutes. If vomiting has not occurred then I re-dose.
Fermenting bread dough is readily ingested by dogs. The dough expands in the stomach and can cause problems associated with obstruction or dilation of the stomach. In addition, yeast is converted to ethanol (drinking alcohol) which is rapidly absorbed from the stomach and intestines. Symptoms include those associated with gastrointestinal obstruction and depression. In severe cases respiratory depression and cardiac arrest can occur. Inducing vomiting is best left to your veterinarian because your dog may not be able to vomit the dough if it has expanded in the stomach.
Holiday plants such poinsettias, mistletoe, and holly can cause gastrointestinal upset at low doses. At higher doses, mistletoe can cause heart problems. It is best to consult with you veterinarian after any exposure to determine if the amount consumed could be dangerous. The most dangerous holiday plant is the Easter lily. Easter lilies (and other members of the lily family) can be deadly to cats. Lily consumption, even at low doses, can cause irreversible kidney damage. Holiday potpourris can cause severe oral burns if consumed (especially when used in the simmer pots).
Other, non-food items that cause problems frequently include electric cords (electrocution), ribbons and tinsel (intestinal obstructions), batteries (chemical burns) and glass ornaments. Ice melting products can be irritating to the mouth and footpads and if ingested, can cause vomiting and electrolyte imbalances. I recommend using a products specifically labeled as safe for pets.
Finally, antifreeze intoxication is all too common. There are some non- or low-toxic brands out there but they are not commonly used. As little as one teaspoon can be deadly to a cat, and as little as four teaspoons can be deadly to a dog. Antifreeze intoxication must be treated immediately after ingestion. Once the toxic chemical (ethylene glycol) has been metabolized by the liver, the resulting damage to the kidneys is irreversible and usually fatal. I emphasize this because it is common for me to hear from owners who didn’t call right away because the pet appeared to not have any symptoms after drinking the antifreeze. Several days later they call and tell me that their pet is now vomiting. Unfortunately, there is very little if anything that I can do at that point.
Dental Care
In this article I would like to address the very common problem of dental disease in pets. Some form of dental disease is present in over 80% of my patients. It ranges from mild gingivitis to severe periodontal disease. Dental disease is a leading cause of illness in dogs and cats either directly by causing pain or indirectly by providing a constant source of bacterial infection to the body. Infection resulting from the bacteria that gains entrance to the bloodstream is directly responsible for some types of heart and kidney disease. We all know how painful a toothache can be; imagine having disease around almost all of your teeth.
Preventing dental disease means more than just throwing the dog a bone now and then. I am amazed how well animals do by themselves considering that most don’t receive any type of routine prophylactic care from their owners. The first step is to have your pet examined by your veterinarian. An assessment of your pet’s oral health can be made, and proper prophylaxis or treatment can be prescribed. Once you pet’s mouth is healthy, you can do many things to keep it that way between follow-up visits. Simply brushing the teeth is a simple procedure that you can do at home. It is important to use toothpaste designed for your pet. Pet toothpaste should be used because it can be swallowed; it usually contains enzymes that will break down the adhesion between plaque and the tooth’s surface in areas that you can’t reach with a brush-and it tastes good. There area many tooth brushes available. I find that the finger-tip brushes are well tolerated. It is important not to be too aggressive at first. You might start by allowing your pet to taste the toothpaste for a few days. Then, start brushing as frequently as your pet will tolerate. Try to do it daily, but if your pet will only tolerate once weekly brushing, this is certainly better than nothing. You can also encourage your pet to use toys designed to clean the teeth while the pet chews. These toys should be durable, provide some mild abrasive action, and be easily cleaned and disinfected. There are also dental biscuits available that can help prevent tarter build-up and these can be given as treats after brushing as a treat for good behavior. For many reasons including prevention of dental disease, do not feed your pet table scraps. If you must feed your pet something from the table, toss them a tarter fighting biscuit instead.
Finally, your pet should have their teeth professionally cleaned annually. It is critical to remove tarter from under the gum line and to probe for pockets that may have formed between the tooth and the gum. The teeth also need to be polished after the cleaning. Do not allow groomers or other non-trained people to scrape the tarter off of the surface of your pet’s teeth. This practice does nothing for the tarter under the gum line which is where the disease is occurring. Also, scaling teeth without polishing them causes micro-etching of the enamel which causes plaque and tarter to accumulate faster.
I feel that treating and preventing dental disease is every bit as important as routine vaccinations. I realize that cleaning your pet’s teeth is expensive; however, this care is vital to preserving your pet’s quality of life. It is important to remember that once dental disease progresses beyond a certain point it can be irreversible, resulting in costly extractions and unnecessary illness.
Pigeon Fever
This months article is about a disease called “Pigeon Fever”. This disease is also known as pidgeon breas, dryland distemper and dryland strangles. The disease is caused by a bacterium called Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis. Most cases occur in the fall, but it can occur anytime.
The most obvious signs of the disease are external abscesses that are commonly seen around the pectoral muscles of the horse’s chest. These abscesses can cause the chest to protrude much like a pigeon’s breast and hence the name. The abscesses can also be found on the abdomen and groin area. In rare cases, abscesses can also form internally. Other symptoms can include lameness and reluctance to move.
The bacteria can live in the soil and then infect the animal by gaining access through sores and abrasions in the skin. It is also commonly believed that biting flies can also spread the disease. Once infection occurs, the disease goes through an incubation period and it may take weeks for abscesses to develop.
A diagnosis of this disease is often presumptive based on the clinical signs. If other abscess forming diseases such as true strangles is suspected, a culture should be taken.
Treatment includes lancing and draining of abscesses. It is sometimes difficult to locate the abscess due to the surrounding swelling and the fact that the abscesses are often very deep. Occasionally an ultrasound exam of the area is done to locate the fluid filled abscess. The material that drains from the abscess should be collected and disposed of to minimize spreading to other horses. The wounds are typically flushed daily with a dilute betadine solution until the wound heals. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatories are also used to help with pain and swelling. The use of antibiotics is controversial. It is believed that antibiotics may prolong the course of the disease. Typically procaine penicillin G and trimethoprim sulfa antibiotics are used. As always, it is imperative that antibiotics be used at the proper dosage and for the proper duration. Long term antibiotic therapy is indicated in cases of internal abscesses because they cannot be drained and the fatality rate for untreated internal abscesses can approach 100%.
Prevention is difficult since the disease can become endemic in certain areas. Generally, good hygiene practices including fly control will minimize the spread of the disease. Quarantining infected horses and thoroughly disinfecting contaminated items is critical.